Andy Irons Passes Away

photo ASP/Kirsten

The incredibly sad news that Andy Irons, 32, has passed away spread through the surfing community like wildfire the afternoon of November 2.  First many hoped it was a false alarm, but slowly the stories were confirmed.

The exact cause of death is unknown at this point in time, but it is believed to have been caused by Dengue fever which has been causing a small epidemic in the Caribbean.  Andy was returning home after withdrawing from the ASP Rip Curl Pro Search in Puerto Rico due to illness, and was too sick to board his connecting flight to Hawaii from Texas.  As yet unconfirmed reports say he was found dead in his hotel room.

Our condolences to the family and friends of Andy.  It is incredibly sad and surreal that his life was cut short so soon.

For more up to date information stay tuned to Surfermag.com.

To an Athlete Dying Young
by A. E. Housman (1859-1936)

The time you won your town the race
We chaired you through the market-place;
Man and boy stood cheering by,
And home we brought you shoulder-high.

To-day, the road all runners come,
Shoulder-high we bring you home,
And set you at your threshold down,
Townsman of a stiller town.

Smart lad, to slip betimes away
From fields were glory does not stay
And early though the laurel grows
It withers quicker than the rose.

Eyes the shady night has shut
Cannot see the record cut,
And silence sounds no worse than cheers
After earth has stopped the ears:

Now you will not swell the rout
Of lads that wore their honours out,
Runners whom renown outran
And the name died before the man.

So set, before its echoes fade,
The fleet foot on the sill of shade,
And hold to the low lintel up
The still-defended challenge-cup.

And round that early-laurelled head
Will flock to gaze the strengthless dead,
And find unwithered on its curls
The garland briefer than a girl’s.

Filed Under: Around The Surfing World

Tags: andy irons, dengue fever, featured

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Peter Spacek Profile

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Peter Spacek with his daughter at a signing for his cartoon compilation "Surf And Mirth"

Peter Spacek is an elusive surfer to find in the water in Montauk, NY.  Preferring to frequent lesser known breaks and avoiding the crowds at Ditch Plains and other popular spots, he is nonetheless one of the most well known names in the area.  This is mostly because Peter is a talented illustrator and artist as well as the creator of Ditch Ink, a company that is best known for its line of witty, surf-centric greeting cards.  Peter’s work has been featured in the surf periodicals Surfer, Surfing, Surfer’s Journal, and Surf Life For Women.  Now after the success of his illustrating career and greeting cards, Peter is venturing into the fine art realm.  He recently had his first gallery opening at Out East in Montauk, with large original art pieces featuring more abstract expressions of his illustrator’s style.  He also displayed creative pieces of board “scrimshaw,” crafted from pieces of a surfboard he actually shaped himself many years ago.  He has also recently published a compilation of his cartoons titled “Surf and Mirth.”

Although surf art was not how Peter got started in illustration, it has slowly eclipsed his former work as a freelance illustrator for such publications as the New York Times and Reader’s Digest.  Peter now splits his time between San Diego and New York, and I recently had a chance to catch up with him over a cup of coffee at Surf Dog’s Java Hut in Encinitas to talk about his roots, his business, and his thoughts on surfing today.

Let’s start at the beginning.  Where are you from?

I spent my formative years in Santa Barbara. My family moved there when I was 7.  But we’re all from Europe.  I was born in Germany, and my parents are Czech.  They were refugees from the war pretty much.  They came over in 1957 in a boat full of refugees, and I was one of them.  I was two years old. We came to New York and we lived there for six months.  The weird part is that I found this old map with Montauk on it, and it has an “X” on Montauk in my dad’s handwriting.  And he goes “Oh yeah we took a trip out on Long Island, I wanted to explore around,” so I think when I was 2 or 3 years old we went to Montauk.  I think we maybe camped at Hither Hills. [laughs] So maybe I was drawn back there later in life.

My dad was really anti-artist.  He had a brother who was a full-on bohemian artist-architect-painter.  My dad went the other way, he was an engineer.  He thought it was all BS.  They were always butting heads.  He got a job at General Motors doing electronics, so we had to move to Flint, Michigan.  I went through first grade there, and I was actually one of the first of my family to learn English – we all spoke German.  Then my dad found an opening at the General Motors plant in Goleta, and he said he wanted to go to California.  So we drove across the country in a station wagon and lived up in Santa Barbara.  So I became a California / Santa Barbara kid.

Peter Spacek with a big catch

I went through city college in Santa Barbara, and then I moved to San Diego and went to San Diego state to study art.  That was when I was 20 or so.  I did the usual partying thing, and met all the surfers there.  We decided to move to Mission Beach, and then forget it.  I finally just had to drop out – I mean we were learning nothing.  I mean, I wasn’t – I wanted to go surf!  I didn’t want to drive eleven miles inland to go to school.  So I dropped out.  I showed up at home and told them “I want to go to Hawaii, I want to go surf.”  I just wanted to go for as long as it took, I had to get it out of my system.  I really had it bad.  They were reeling—like, “What went wrong?”  So I had my backpack and my board, I bought the one way air ticket, and I’m putting canned food in my backpack as I’m going out the door [laughs].  I decided I wasn’t going to go to the North Shore, I went to Kauai since I knew someone there.  When I got there and I got a mask and spear and decided I was going to spearfish and live in the woods.  I just needed a purging like that.  So I made a little camp in the woods and I was just immediately hated by everyone, the local guys.  Hawaii was full of Californians showing up and trying to do the same thing.  They showed up and expected to be taken in and accepted.

So there was a lot of that?

Well not a lot, but enough.  A lot of surf bums.  So it took me about seven or eight days to realize it wasn’t really for me.  But I decided I wanted to stick it out.  I got some awesome waves in Hanalei bay.  I quickly ran out of money – I remember buying big containers of oatmeal at the store because that really lasted and stuck to the ribs.  I was eating a lot of coconuts.  At the same time I kind of liked it, the grubbiness of it.  I didn’t really like the other guys like me who were hanging out trying to do the same thing; everyone was kind of in survival mode.  You were competing for waves, space.  There wasn’t really that feeling you wanted to have.

That’s interesting; you kind of think of Hawaii at that time being like this utopia of surfing.

It really wasn’t.  I mean, everyone was getting too high all the time, and nobody had money; you’re always bumming money.  It wasn’t a good vibe.  I had to move my camp two or three times because guys would come up to me and say, “Hey some guys I heard know where your camp is and they’re gonna come kick your ass, they’re gonna mess up your camp.” So I’d go, “Ok thanks for the tip,” and I’d go move it somewhere else. You’re hitchhiking around the island with your board and your backpack, and nobody picks you up.  There’s lots of long walking.  Then you paddle out and the local guys don’t like you.  Actually, one guy ran me over on purpose with his longboard and completely broke my nose.  Smashed it off to the side, blood erupted everywhere.  I was like, I’m not gonna let it bother me.  I paddle back out and sat right next to the guy.  I kept surfing with blood just dripping.  I wasn’t gonna just cave in.  So, I’m running out of money, and I didn’t want to ask anyone, didn’t want to call home.  I saw a sign that said, “Carnival coming to island – One week – Need workers.”  So I thought, “That’s it!” I could get some money and go home.  I got the job at the carnival, and with my crooked broken nose I probably looked really carney-ish.  [laughs]

What did you do in the Carnival?

Well, it was pretty funny.  I was employed to help run the Tilt-A-Whirl: set it up, take it down.  The guys at the carnival quickly realized I wasn’t an idiot, and within the first forty minutes I’m completely operating the Tilt-A-Whirl.  So to this day I will not go on any carnival rides because I knew nothing!  And there I was with the hydraulics, loading up the people, taking it up as far as I felt like. Then the guys come over in the evening and they get me super high.  I get back on the controls and I’m making it go too high and I’m hitting the decking and people are screaming.  [laughs]  But it was from noon to midnight working on this thing, and it was just grueling.  I slept underneath the ride at night, mosquitoes everywhere.  I had these coils burning on the grass trying to keep them away.  It was just misery on top of misery.  And then the last day you worked from midnight to midnight and then you had to help them load the ride on barges.  So after that I was ready to bail out of there.  I waited for the money to be delivered and after taxes I think it was like 89 dollars or something crazy like that.

Travel Sketchbook

But I had a couple of great days at Hanalei bay, and I met some nice people.  And there were some days that stuck out so it wasn’t that miserable.  But I quickly realized I didn’t want to be doing it.  Surfing wasn’t enough.  Hawaii wasn’t that paradise, really.  Not in that situation.  I didn’t have quite enough money to get back, so I called my parents and they wired me the extra money I needed.  I had to hitchhike to the airport the evening before so I could catch my flight in the morning.  I slept next to the runway and I remember it was torrentially raining. I had this tarp over me, and I recall my body under the tarp with puddles all the way around in a perfect body shape.  When I came back I told my parents that I’d like to go back to school.  They didn’t really say much, but they supported me.  That kind of straightened me out, and I took it more seriously.  I went back to school and did well in illustration and design.  There was a contest put on by the Navy for a recruitment poster, sponsored by an ad agency.  I won the contest, and afterwords the agency asked if I wanted to help them out.  It was Wilson Frank and Associates, downtown.  I hadn’t finished school at San Diego State, but I was working at an ad agency as an artist / designer.  I was 22, and my dad realized I could actually make a living doing what I did and he felt better about it all.  That’s what I did for about two or three years.

This one guy that used to work there went off to go to school at Art Center in LA.  When he came back he showed me this unreal art that he had done up there.  And I couldn’t believe what happened to him in a year of him going to that school.  I thought this [the agency] was great for me, but [the art school] was what I really wanted to be doing.  That’s what the value in art school is; you’re around people who are really good and then everything is ratcheted up.  It’s inspirational.  So I applied there and got in, so I moved from San Diego to Pasadena.  After I graduated they looked at my portfolio and they told me I needed to go to New York.  I had that whimsical magazine-style art, and all the magazines were in New York.  LA was more entertainment industry and realistic artwork.  So I thought, “Well there’s that Montauk place…” [laughs].  So I said well, I’ll go and check it out.  I drove across the country and got an apartment in Brooklyn.  It was the middle of winter, so as soon as it warmed up in spring I drove out to Montauk.  I thought, “Well this is only two hours away, so maybe I can do this.”  So that first summer with the pickup truck with the camper shell I camped illegally around the Hamptons and surfed.  There was one surf shop in the Hamptons at that time; Seasonings in Amagansett.  It was the only one back in ’80, ’81.  So I was hooked.  I loved it right off the bat.  But I had to live in the city, live in Brooklyn.  Eventually I was able to afford a rent share in Montauk.   So that’s how I ended up in Montauk again.

Wave Hog And Butcher - By Peter Spacek

So just full circle.  When did you find your dad’s map?

Maybe just nine years ago.  My dad had this cabinet of old maps and we were cleaning it out and found that map with Montauk marked on it.  It kind of freaked me out. [laughs]

You were always into illustration?

I was always a drawer.  I got my first stamp of approval from my teacher in fifth grade – my teacher told my parents that I should be an artist.  My dad didn’t think that was such a good suggestion.  But my uncle, the artist, was always encouraging me.  I wanted to be like him.    He was an amazing architect and an amazing painter.  He had the Porsche, my dad had the Volkswagen van.  I kinda wanted to prove to my dad that I could do it.  When I had my first drawing published in the New York Times I cut it out and sent it to him, and he was actually the proudest.  He was showing it to everyone at work.  He kinda came around.  It meant a lot to me.

When you moved to New York where did you get a job?

Peter's scrimshaw drawing on old pieces of surfboards.

I had this double major, advertising and illustration, where you’re supposed to learn how to be an art director and create an ad.  Maybe because of my dad I was a little worried about just doing freelance illustration, waiting for someone to hire you.  I was a nobody.  The school had a reputation, so you could get a position as an assistant art director to start.  So eventually I did.  At the same time I would take my illustration portfolio around and get that ball rolling.  Four years later I was able to make more money doing freelance illustration than at the regular job.  That’s when I began to just do illustration.  It’s a lot of waiting around, waiting for someone to call.  It’s nerve wracking.  You put your name out, and there were directories.  You could take your portfolio around and drop it off.  It always seems to come in clusters where you get six jobs on top of each other and then do nothing for a week.  I don’t do that as much now because I have the greeting card business and do a regular cartoon for the East Hampton Star.  The show [at OutEast gallery] was really my first fine art show, and I’m really excited about that.  People seemed to want some of that stuff.  So I’m working on that, and my board scrimshaw where I drew on pieces of old surfboards.  That seems to be very popular, it takes advantages to drawing.  There’s more depth to it, it’s more sculptural.

One of them was a board you shaped, correct?

Yeah I pulled it out of my mom’s shed three or four months ago.  It was so rotten and yellow.  It was perfect.

Peter chopping up his surfboard for his scrimshaw art

Have you shaped a lot of boards?

Well I was always trying something new.  I didn’t like the boards in the 70’s.  It was either longboards or these super gunny pintails.  They didn’t work most of the time.  There was no such thing as a funshape or whatever.  There were these old longboards left over from the 60’s – which we loved and rode em.  Got them for next to nothing.  As shortboards were getting figured out they were only worked when it was really big and great, surf wise.  So I decided I wanted something that was like a longboard but shorter.  So I just decided to make my own.  So I made three or four, very crudely.  The cruder the better [laughs].

So they were the first…what would you say?

Fat shortboards?  I remember taking one to Malibu, and the crowd was on the beach going “wow look at that board!”  They said it was very progressive.  I was like not really, I just wanted something that was fun to surf.  But now I’ve chopped them to bits and used them for scrimshaw.

How did you get started with the greeting cards?  Was it a natural extension of what you were doing?

I had already worked for a lot of other greeting card companies.  When I was in New York I was a freelance illustrator and that’s basically what I did for a living.  I worked for Hallmark and a few others.  I always thought the stuff we did was kind of lame and I didn’t really like it.  I thought it could be better.  So I thought about doing my own line of greeting cards.  But this was back when surfing wasn’t really that mainstream and still sort of underground.  I never really believed I could combine the cards with the surf art I did for fun—that was something I did separately, it wasn’t for profit.  But then things started to change, and surfing became big time.  I decided to try to put it out there.  And it really all started with Wetiquette, the book I wrote about surfing etiquette.  Surfing was starting to get really popular at Ditch Plains (Montauk), and everybody was showing up with their brand new boards and paddling out.  They didn’t know how to surf at all.  [laughs]  I thought, well, someone really has to put the rules down.  I’d never seen it actually written down or anything.  It wasn’t really discussed…it was just, “You’re a kook, you don’t know what you’re doing.”  I didn’t know if there’d be enough to make it into a book, but after thinking it through I realized there was.  I took it through the entire surfing experience; getting yourself to the beach, checking it out, where to paddle out, how to act once you’re out there.  I put it together and self-published it.  Tony [Caramanico] told me to go down to Surf Expo in Florida and sell it.  I was a little unsure about that idea since Wetiquette was just a small book, so I decided to whip together a few greeting cards as well.  I had been doing them for some friends anyway, and I came up with 10 or 12 greeting cards.  Basically ones I had already done.

One Of Peter's Greeting Cards

Actually, the Museum of Modern Art [MoMA] does a contest and I had entered a few designs and won.  So my first greeting cards, surprisingly enough, were actually for sale at MoMA.  It was great.  This was before the surfing culture really kind of existed.  You walked into the Museum of Modern art gift shop and there was this goofy Santa with a surfboard on his head, and a reindeer on top of that, and they were surfing together.  But that gave me some confidence.  I knew there was a possible market for it.  So I had those two [from MoMA], and I had a few more over the years.  So I took it all to surf expo. Wetiquette did pretty well, but they also liked the greeting cards.  So I got a bunch of orders for those cards and that’s how it started.  I mean, you’re next to Quiksilver and this big showbiz stuff, but it was positive.  I got orders, and when I got back I immediately had to learn how to have this business going.  Before that people would just hire me for freelance illustration work.  But with the way the economy’s going it was a good income supplement.  I talked to greeting card reps who thought it was a good, novel idea, but they told me I needed at least 40 cards.  So I had to go back and create 30 more.  So that’s how it started.

Where have you traveled?  Where do you like the best?

I just wanted to see the world.  Surfing was a great way to go to places that were off the beaten path.  It gave you a structure for how you were gonna see the world.  I went to Hawaii a few seasons in a row when I was in New York.  I started making enough money in New York where I realized I could take time off and travel.  Reading Surfer magazine over the years gave me a lot of ideas of where I wanted to go.  I went to Portugal a few seasons.  I was living with a woman at the time and she lost her job, so I go, “Oh great!  Now we can go on a round the world trip!”  So it was a great opportunity to go.  At the time this one airline was doing round the world tickets, as long as you kept going in one direction you could make as many stops as you wanted.  It was great, we took two months and did that.  I think I went to Teaupoo in Tahiti…it wasn’t very big but it was gnarly.  I love the tropics, but I hate getting ripped to shreds by coral.  I just don’t like getting bloodied constantly which I swear it is half the time there [laughs].  Tahiti, New Zealand, Australia, France, Portugal, Spain. I love that whole European coast.

I have piles of sketchbooks full of sketches from places I’ve been.  I try to make it one page per day when I go.  Like the Indo piece I did; it’s an illustrated diary.

Poster of Peter's work in Surfer's Journal

That’s what you did for Surfer’s Journal right?

Yeah that was with Russell Drumm.  He told them we were going to go, and maybe we could do a story, and they said, “Well, let’s see what you come up with.”  It wasn’t like an assignment or anything.  So I just decided to draw every day.

Was that the first time you were in Surfer’s Journal?

I’ve done a couple little spots for them.   Sometimes in the back they have a little cartoon.  I actually knew the art director from when he worked at Surfer because I worked with them a little too in the 80’s.

But I love to draw when I travel.  I think that’s my most natural work when I’m just sketching in sketchbooks.  They just happen; I can’t really recreate it.

Lemmings

What really inspires your work?

It’s just a stream of consciousness.  Something might occur to me and I’ll draw it.  It’s usually something I find kind of funny, or a what-if.  I’ll draw it and usually something else pops to mind about something related to it.  Then you have a stream of visual thought running down the page.  I like concepts.  I’m not a landscape guy.  I mean, I can sit down and draw real life stuff, but it’s usually more of an idea or something that came to mind that was ironic.  Something to get off my chest.  That’s kind of how I let my feelings be known, perhaps.  People look through the sketchbooks and they go, “You are one sick motherf—er.” [laughs].  So I guess it’s kind of a corny expression, but I suppose it’s how I express myself.

Since you actually wrote “the book” on Surf Etiquette, what’s your pet peeve when you’re out in the water?  What’s the number one rule you hate to see people break?

The non-communicating really drives me crazy, where people are sitting there all stoically next to each other.  I mean, all you gotta say is, “Going left!” Which way are you going?  It’s that BS vibe.  It’s not so much in New York–it is more now–but here [in California].  You’d think it would be this brotherhood of surfers and everyone’s getting along in the water, but everyone is very prickly.  And [people say] you’re riding the wrong board or whatever.  The way I look at it, everyone surfs and they should all get along.  But it’s not.  The longboarders don’t like the shortboarders, and the shortboarders don’t like the fish riders.  And everyone subdivides, creating smaller coalitions to oppose the other group.  It’s this bad reflection of human nature.  The comfort zone gets to me also,  giving other people some space in the water.  But it’s basically the unnecessary posturing and not talking.  It becomes this arena for alpha males, and they all want to come to the same spot so they can stuff each other.  There could be another great wave just down the beach.

How do you feel surf culture has changed since you started?

It was an underground, off the grid eccentric thing.  But now it’s become more commonplace like it kind of is in Australia.  More people talk about it.  In the old days if there was a surfer in an advertisement it was really novel, but now it’s so common.  There [in Australia] I remember asking this surfer if they knew what the tide was, and this elderly couple chimed in and said, “High tide’s at 4:00 and I think the wind’s turning offshore around 12!” Everyone knew everything, like the way football is here.  It’s become this fashion thing now, and that’s a big part of it.  I had a nutty group of friends and we kind of made it mystical in a way, and we were all trying to get to that magic point.  To us there was some voodoo to the whole thing, with a certain board.  It was kind of a religion in a way.  I don’t know if it’s still like that to people.

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You can order Surf and Mirth, Wetiquette, and Peter’s greeting cards from DitchInk.com

Find Ditch Ink on Facebook at http://www.facebook.com/DitchInk

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**All images courtesy of and copyright © Peter Spacek.

Filed Under: Profiles And Interviews

Tags: Ditch Ink, featured, Montauk, Peter Spacek, Surf And Mirth, surf art

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10 Questions for 7 Surfers

10 Questions for 7 Surfers

I had the opportunity to interrupt the busy lives of seven of the coolest surfers (who just happened to be women) and ask them the really tough questions that we all want to know.  Who hasn’t wondered if other surfers are secretly watching North Shore and memorizing all the great lines, or is it Blue Crush? Am I the only one that thinks Turtle is one of the all time surfing icons?  And just how popular are Kelly Slater and Jack Johnson?  Apparently they are very popular.  And for a post surf meal, taco’s, burritos, hummus, acai bowls, fries; we love ‘em all

Go ahead; compare your answers to other surfers.  Oh and, yeah, I let Mary and Karina answer extra questions.  Who could stop them?

Rochelle Shacked - Photo by Dave Bjorn

Competitive surfing, movies, Yoga, recycling, diving and hiking through the lush mountains of Hawaii.  You name it; Rochelle’s covered the surfing world.  As if the record for two perfect 10’s in one heat wasn’t enough, she spent 17 years on the ASP and still found time to make us believe that Kate Bosworth could drop into huge Pipeline.

Best thing about surfing?
Diving into the ocean, paddling out and seeing a good wave peel off, makes me so excited.

Worst thing about surfing?
Crowds, kooks, and male ego

Where do you want to surf that you haven’t been?
Philippines Cloud 9

North Shore or Blue Crush?
Blue Crush of course

Your favorite cross-training method?
Yogalign power flow, run on the beach, and swim

Donovan Frankenreiter or Jack Johnson?
Jack Johnson

If you got an all-expense paid surf trip to Tavarua and could take three people, who would you take?
My Dad, my brother, and a date

How cold is too cold?
When I can’t feel my feet and I would rather be having a hot cup of tea

Best post-surf meal?
Tacos and a beer

What famous surfer inspires you the most?
Kelly inspires me the most, he has from day one and I love who he is, what he does, and his energy, plus he’s really hot

Meghan Walsh in Montauk

This Brooklyn surfer (I don’t think I’ve ever heard that term before) is a Montauk regular, but loves to travel to surf destinations.  Meghan has surfed in Mexico, Portugal, Hawaii, Australia, New Zealand, Guatemala, El Salvador, Barbados, Puerto Rico, Costa Rica, New York and California.

Best thing about surfing?
Everything about surfing is great: being in the water, looking at the landscape/sunset/sunrise from the water, and of course riding waves.

Worst thing about surfing?
It’s hard to focus on anything else or attend to life’s responsibilities when you’re at the beck and call of the ocean and Mother Nature.

Where do you want to surf that you haven’t been?
Bali

North Shore or Blue Crush
Didn’t see North Shore so am going to go with Blue Crush, but will put Northshore on my Netflix queue.

Your favorite cross-training method?
People say swimming and yoga help but I don’t think anything can get you in shape for surfing except surfing.

Donovan Frankenreiter or Jack Johnson?
Jack Johnson

If you got an all-expense paid surf trip to Tavarua and could take three people, who would you take?
Three of my friends with the best vibe and who are the most fun to travel with.

How cold is too cold?
I don’t like the cold so I’m going to say 50 degrees.

Best post-surf meal?
Fish tacos.

What famous surfer would you like to hang out with?
I would love to hang out with Kelly Slater.

Patagonia's Mary Osborne

I can’t think of a surf magazine that hasn’t featured this incredibly talented athlete.  She has made a very nice career surfing, modeling and writing.  Remember MTV’s “Surf Girls”?  Remember Mary winning the longboard division?   I do.

Best thing about surfing?
No wave or ride is ever the exact same

Worst thing about surfing?
Crowds and cold water

Where do you want to surf that you haven’t been?
So many places.. South Africa, Barra, El Salvador

North Shore or Blue Crush?
North Shore

Your favorite cross-training method?
Standing on a medicine ball and doing squats

Donovan Frankenreiter or Jack Johnson?
Hmmmm I prefer something different but I will pick Jack

If you got an all-expense paid surf trip to Tavarua and could take three people, who would you take?
My three older brothers

How cold is too cold?
Snowing, freezing ice water with a bad wetsuit

Best post-surf meal?
Burger, beer and fries

Who would you most like to compete against?
Kelly slater… just kidding… wait OCCY..jk

What famous surfer would you like to hang out with?
Rell Sun, I never got to meet her

Who is your favorite surfing personality of all time?
Wingnut

Taylor Pitz - Photo by Nathaniel Harrington

High School phenom, NSSA Women’s open champ, Laguna Beach local and Billabong team member.  Does the High School girl down the block show up at your favorite reef break and make you look silly?  She does if you live in Laguna……yeah, she rips!

Best thing about surfing?
Having fun in the water with friends.

Worst thing about surfing?
Sunburn.

Where do you want to surf that you haven’t been?
The Gold Coast of Australia

North Shore or Blue Crush?
Blue Crush for sure.

Your favorite cross-training method?
Swimming or hiking.

Donovan Frankenreiter or Jack Johnson?
Love both, but I must say Jack Johnson: he’s my all time favorite.

If you got an all-expense paid surf trip to Tavarua and could take three people, who would you take?
My Dad, Andrew Palmer and Rex Strombotne (Local boys)

How cold is too cold?
Anything too cold for shorts or a bikini.

Best post-surf meal?
Acai bowl.

Who would you most like to compete against?
Stephanie Gilmore: if you’re going to compete against someone, why not the best?

Hayley Gordon in Portugal

A bicoastal surfer originally from Long Island, New York, Hayley runs SurfingHandbook.com.  Always the first one to give positive feedback, she is what surfing is all about.  Pure stoke!

Best thing about surfing?
The fact that I can paddle out and come back refreshed; almost a new person.

Worst thing about surfing?
Frustration that comes with the crowds.

Where do you want to surf that you haven’t been?
Kandui surf resort looks absolutely amazing.

North Shore or Blue Crush ?
North Shore – nobody listens to Turtle

Your favorite cross-training method?
Swimming is great, but longboard skateboarding is also a fun way to improve.

Donovan Frankenreiter or Jack Johnson?
Jack Johnson

If you got an all-expense paid surf trip to Tavarua and could take three people, who would you take?
Ooh, that’s tough.  Probably my friends Val, Meghan, and Suzanne since I’ve had some very fun surf trips with them.

How cold is too cold?
It’s never too cold – I have surfed in New York in January in below freezing temps.

Best post-surf meal?
A burrito from Mozy’s cafe in Leucadia, or a Bruce sandwich from Naturally Good in Montauk.

What famous surfer would you like to hang out with?
Well, this might sound cliche but I’d love to hang out with Kelly Slater and hope he could impart some of his wave wisdom on me.

Karina Petroni

Surfer, model and all around cool head….  She grew up in a jungle next to the Panama Canal, perfected her surfing on the East Coast and spends much of her time in the Bahamas .  Did you see her in The Cove?  Karina is definitely living life to the fullest!

Best thing about surfing?
The Ocean, to be surrounded by God’s biggest and greatest creation is phenomenal as well never being handed a rule book when you learn how to surf.

Worst thing about surfing?
Ice Cream headaches in freezing waters.

Where do you want to surf that you haven’t been?
Italy.

North Shore or Blue Crush?
Oh geez, I would say North Shore on the off season (Okay, we’ll accept that)

Your favorite cross-training method?
Yoga, soft sand running and Vegan diet!

Donovan Frankenreiter or Jack Johnson?
I like them both

If you got an all-expense paid surf trip to Tavarua and could take three people, who would you take?
David Mitchell, Paul Petroni and Reidunn Petroni my mom!

How cold is too cold?
Yakatat Alaska was pretty darn cold, but Japanese rubber these days is incredible.

Best post-surf meal?
Hummus, Taboulie, Salad.

Who would you most like to compete against?
Rob Machado

What famous surfer would you like to hang out with?
Tom Carrol

Who’s is your favorite surfing personality of all time?
Rabbit

What famous surfer inspires you the most?
Dave Rastovich

Do you laugh at yourself everyday?
Yes (Karina wrote that question)

Valerie Gee, Duckdiving In Hawaii

Hailing from  Encinitas, California, this member of the Mahfia (see mahfia.com)  loves her surfing and loves her music.  When not filling her surfing addiction you’ll find her on the slopes in the winter time looking for fresh powder to shred.

Best thing about surfing?
Mother Nature,  friends, dolphins, dudes and amazing trips!

Worst thing about surfing?
Putting on a wet wetsuit when its cold out.

Where do you want to surf that you haven’t been?
Bali

North Shore or Blue Crush?
North Shore hands down, but I actually helped promote Blue Crush when it came out in 2002.

Your favorite cross-training method?
Running and yoga

Donovan Frankenreiter or Jack Johnson?
Jack Johnson

If you got an all-expense paid surf trip to Tavarua and could take three people, who would you take?
Hayley, Beth and Lori

How cold is too cold?
If I have to wear a 5/3, hood and gloves.

Best post-surf meal?
Erin’s Chicken Plantain burrito from Mozy’s

What famous surfer would you like to hang out with?
Dane Reynolds. Quirky. Cute. Unbelievably talented.

/\/(

Filed Under: Profiles And Interviews

Tags: featured, Hayley Gordon, interviews, Karina Petroni, Mary Osborne, Meghan Walsh, Rochelle Ballard, Taylor Pitz, Valerie Gee

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From Tree To Sea: The Makahele Koa Chronicles

The following is actually the story of a beautiful Hawaiian girl, one Makahele Koa Alaia. So, while I just sit back and admire her beauty, I’m gonna let her tell her own story:

Aloha! I am Makahele Koa Alaia. In a former life, I was a majestic Koa tree, born and raised in the I’o Valley on the island of Maui. But now,  I have been reincarnated as an alaia, for it was my destiny.

In a former life, I was a majestic Koa tree, born and raised in the I’o Valley on the island of Maui

For those unfamiliar with my species, I am Arcacia Koa. Koa trees were once the kings of the Hawaiian forest, growing to heights greater than 100 feet with a base of more than 10 feet, and protected by a fearless god. The name Koa means “bold, brave, fearless warrior.” Koa symbolizes health, wealth and general well-being. One Hawaiian blessing goes: “E ola koa!” or “Let him live with the health, wealth and well-being of a Koa tree.”

Koa has always been prized for its reddish-brown, fine-textured wood. Carpenters and craftsmen alike have always been attracted to its low shrinkage, workability, and unique ability to cure from green wood to finished product without cracking. It provided the early Hawaiians with a stable wood from which to build houses, canoes, and most importantly for the sake of you readers, surfboards.

You see, in Ancient Hawaii, surfing–or he’e nalu–was of great spiritual magnitude.  Everything from praying for waves to the art of making boards was ritualistic. The board you rode and even the wood in which it was constructed determined your place in the society’s pecking order.

Under the kapu system of laws, the ali’i, or ruling class, was above all others. The commoners surfed on paipos or alaias made of ula or koa wood, and the ruling class rode another type of board made of the more buoyant wili wili wood, called an olo.

I, personally, am proud being the wood of the commoner. E ola koa!

I began my life on this earth in the I’o Valley on the island of Maui, a site of a historic significance.  In 1790 the Battle of Kepaniwai took place there, in which Kamehameha the Great, a surfer, defeated Kalanikupule and the Maui army during his campaign to unify the islands. The battle was said to be so bloody that dead bodies blocked the I’o Stream, and the battle site was named Kepaniwai, meaning “the damming of the waters.”

While I was born in the I’o Valley, I’m not actually quite sure of my birth date. All I know is that Koa trees may be the most ancient tree species in the Hawaiian archipelago. Scientists believe that as a species koa is millions of years old.

I do know that in February of 1911 my life as a tree came to an end. That month I was harvested by a ship’s captain (and surfer), and shipped all the way to North Florida where I was to become part of a house to be built on the St. John’s River.

That house, however, was never built, so I’ve spent the past 99 years as a plank, 6 feet 11 inches tall, 16 inches wide and one inch thick, sitting in a barn with hundreds of other Koa planks.

I’ve spent the past 99 years as a plank, 6 feet 11 inches tall, 16 inches wide and one inch thick, sitting in a barn with hundreds of other Koa planks

About three years ago, a surfboard shaper named Greg Hall, was contacted by a group of lawyers and informed that he was the recipient of myself and all of my other Koa plank friends, willed to him by the dying ship’s captain.

Greg, who had taught board shaping and water safety to kids at the Haleiwa Surf Center back in the 70s had taught the captain’s grandchildren the art of surfboard making.  The captain was impressed not only with Greg’s prowess, but more importantly, his Aloha Spirit, and he left Greg all of the precious Koa under four stipulations:

One, he was to never divulge the name of the family or the location of the wood. Two, he was not to pay for any of it. Three, he could use all he wanted.  And four, he could use it only to build surfboards.

When Marion Stratford, a surf writer from Jacksonville Beach, Florida, heard this story he was, to say the least, blown away.  He told the story here on The Surfing Handbook, and in the following days got to know Greg better.  As the stories unfolded there was one thing for certain: He had to have one of the magnificent alaias that Greg was building.

Marion promptly placed his order for an original Koa Alaia.

So, after sitting in the barn for 99 years, Greg came and rescued me on Monday, August 23, 2010.  From that day forward I was to begin a new life as an Alaia.  I bid my other Koa friends “Aloha” and told them, “I’ll see you in the water.”

My first stop was Greg’s house in Altamont Springs, Florida, where I would literally take shape. Greg called Marion and gave him my specifics:

“Koa Plank
Harvested in Feb, 1911 at I’O valley, Maui (west Maui, home of the famous I’o needle rock formation)
Characteristics:  Very dense, high lignin content. Arcacia Koa, some checks (cracks I will fill).  Cathedral grain pattern, black stripes therein. Flitch was wrapped and inscribed with the word MAKAHELE.
Cool sounding Hawaiian name, so we will call this board that!”

Princess Ka’iulani “was an expert surfrider,” according to early Twentieth Century surfrider Knute Cottrell.

So with my new life came a new name: Makahele.  Greg decided to shape me from a template of an alaia owned and ridden by Princess Ka’iulani from 1889. Princess Ka’iulani’s Alaia is one of, if not THE oldest surfboard still in existence. It has been housed at the Bishop Museum in Honolulu since 1922; part of the estate donated by Ka`iulani’s father Archibald Cleghorn.

Born Victoria Ka’iulani Kalaninuiahilapalapa Kawekiu i Lunalilo Cleghorn in 1875, Ka’iulani was heir to the throne of the Kingdom of Hawai’i and held the title of crown princess. She became known throughout the world for her intelligence, beauty and determination. After the overthrow of the Hawaiian monarchy in 1893 she spearheaded a campaign to restore the Kingdom, but her negotiations could not prevent the eventual annexation. And, oh yeah, she was a surfer.

She “was an expert surfrider,” according to early Twentieth Century surfrider Knute Cottrell. “She apparently was the last of the old school at Waikiki.”

Needless to say, I am honored to carry on the tradition of such a great princess.

So, on Monday, September 6, 2010, I was shaped in the form of the Princess’ alaia. A tremendously heartfelt Greg wrote:

“Marion Stratford’s alaia is getting shaped by history! This template is from Princess Ka’iulani’s alaia from 1889, Hawaii. It will be about 7’2? or so, depending on the tailblocks added. Makahele is destined to go surfing in Florida first, where she has already lived hidden within an old plank in a barn for 100 years! You cannot appreciate the wonderful feeling I have making these recreations of Princess Ka’iulani’s surfboards, unless, of course, you know the tragic history that is her story and America’s greatest disgraceful act. In a nutshell, she was a very beautiful and brave little surfer girl who surpassed all expectations in a hard Victorian world. There is little written how she had to sneak to the beach, away from the missionaries, to ride inside the very hollow tubes of Queen’s surf and even the huge “Bluebirds”, way outside with the big boys; this even before Duke Kahanamoku was even born! Just think of that! Think of the great joy she knew! You can see it in the shape of her board, can’t you!”

That’s what I really like about Greg: He’s not only a gifted shaper, but he carries within himself the Aloha Spirit, acquired during his 26 year tenure shaping boards and riding big waves on the North Shore. He always handles me with care and uses only hand tools, just like the Ancient Hawaiians 1000 years ago. He even took the time to have me blessed, as is the Hawaiian tradition.

On Wednesday, September 8, 2010, Greg sent Marion a few pictures, just to let him know how I was coming along

On Wednesday, September 8, 2010, Greg sent Marion a few pictures, just to let him know how I was coming along. He wrote:

“Makahele Alaia has been roughed out, endured the blessings by the Duke and the Tiki, and has been anointed with the first of many coats of oil.”

Marion could only respond:

“Oh my! She’s beautiful!!!!”

Greg’s comeback:

“When I make these and see the grain that has been hidden by dirt and sawdust, you can’t imagine how hard it is to accept the fact that this can’t be mine and I have to pass it on. Oh, it’s a joy for sure, but like any parent, always a tough thing!”

Quite flattering, I must say. But I must admit… I do look pretty good, don’t I?

Gotta admit...I am looking good, aren't I?

So, having been blessed by the Duke and the Tiki, I looked forward to being branded with Greg’s honu petroglyph, the logo for his Petroglyph Surfboards.

On Thursday, September 16, 2010, Greg’s honu petroglyph was burned in (painless), and the first coat of oil was applied. Greg wrote:

“I am making “MAKAHELE,” Marion Stratford’s stunning Koa wood Alaia. Here is a teaser picture of the baby Alaia, with it’s “Honu” seaturtle petroglyph leaving a trail under the very first coat of oil on the Deck. The board is 6' 11? long, made from Koa wood from the mountains that form I’o valley, Maui.”

On Thursday, September 16, 2010, Greg’s honu petroglyph was burned in (painless)

The following two weeks were spent being caressed with daily coats of tung oil. I could see the light at the end of the tunnel, or should I say, “tube.”

On September 26, 1010, Greg sent Marion the message he had been anxiously waiting for. Greg wrote:

“Aloha kau ko! Makahele ready fo’ pick up! As dey say around the Paniole ranchland when da kaukau stay pau, ‘Come and git’ da grinds!’ (translated pidgin English: ‘Why, Hello, my very good man! Your Koa wood Alaia surfboard that we have named Makahele is finished, and ready to be appropriated into your possession!’ As they say on the Hawaiian cowboy ranches when the dinner has been prepared and ready to eat, ‘Please come and partake in Dinner!’”

Marion arranged to drive down to Altamont Springs, but then Greg had another idea. It turns out that Greg was attending the 10th Annual Beach Bash at Bethune Beach on October 3. It was decided that Marion would drive down to the bash and pick me up that Sunday.

And so it was. Greg and I drove to Bethune Beach and met Marion, who I must say, sure does grin a lot! I don’t know if it was me, or the alcohol, or what, but he wore a smile that never left his face the entire day. In fact, he’s still smiling.

Delivery to Marion on October 3, 2010. I told you he grins a lot!

Today, I am standing in Marion’s living room. The house is sweet with the delightful scent of tung oil, and I’m fond of the new crib. I miss Greg, but at least he sold me to a surfer who is aware of and appreciates my humble beginnings and the lives I have led thus far. I’m certain we will have a wonderful life together.

Marion has lots of friends who all tend to admire me, offering “oohs” and “aahs” as they fondle me from nose to tail. They speak of my hard rails and beautiful grain, and quite honestly, it can get to one’s head a bit (but just a little)!

However, that being said, I’ve got to tell you, after one week, I’m starting to get a little agitated. After spending the past 99 years in an old, moldy barn, I’m not exactly diggin’ leaning against Marion’s living room wall.

I’m a beautiful Koa Alaia. I bear the name Makahele. I was born in the I’o Valley, site of Battle of Kepaniwai and inspired by the great Princess Ka’iulani!

Darn it! I am destined to surf… and I wanna get wet!

“E ola koa!”

Filed Under: Around The Surfing World

Tags: alaia, ancient hawaiian surfing, featured, Greg Hall, paipo, Princess Ka’iulani, shapers

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Buying A New Board? Support Your Local Shaper

The idea of having a surfboard custom shaped has always been a great mystery to me.  It’s not like finding someone to paint your house or landscape your front yard.  First of all, you gotta find one.   Where does one find a shaper?  The only surfboard shapers I knew were Chandler and Eden, but I’m pretty sure they were fictional.  Seriously though, it’s not like you can just go on Google and find a surfboard shaper…..well, you kinda can, but you also get slammed with big manufacturers pushing mass produced “imported” boards.  It’s very confusing.

I’m talking about the guy (or girl) covered in foam dust while they plane down the rails to create a shape that specifically fits your surfing and style.  The Michelangelos of the surf world.  And let’s not forget that with shaping, glassing and artwork, you might be working with three Michelangelos.  These are the artisans who are extremely passionate and proud of their creations.

However, it starts with a relationship, so you have to talk to a shaper and see if it feels right.  Again, how do you find one?  Ask a surfer.  Most experienced surfers I spoke with knew at least one shaper, and many of them had firsthand experience ordering customs boards.  That’s how I met a shaper.  That’s how I met Sean Tully.

Sean Tully mowin' some foam

Sean was gracious enough to answer some questions that will hopefully pull back the curtain on the world of custom surfboards:

How did you get started shaping surfboards?

I have always been interested in the design features.  As a teenager I was able to get boards made for me by Josh Martin, the son of legendary shaper Terry Martin.  I always appreciated the fact that Josh would allow me to watch, and even video tape his work in action. I also always enjoyed the combination of left and right brained activities, the blend of art and detailed design, which is exactly what shaping was.

I was a senior in college at the University of California Santa Barbara when two good friends of mine gave me a blank for my birthday in November of 2001.  I had always wanted to give shaping a try, and at the time was living at a house where we could set up a make shift room under the carport.  So I decided to make a George Greenough inspired single fin shortboard.  I shaped and glassed the board start to finish.  The board actually came out pretty good.  This gave me inspiration to make more.

I continued to shape boards for friends and family while living in Santa Barbara.  I soon moved down to Cardiff by the Sea, where again I was able to find a house with a shaping room, but this one was already set up in the backyard.  There was even an old blank left in the shed from the previous tenant.  This would play a huge part in my surfboard building.  I soon built a glassing room off the back of that shaping shed, and after that was up and running as a small time backyard board builder.

Because I did every board from start to finish, each one was really a custom board for a specific customer.  At my busiest time I was making about a couple boards a week, shaping and glassing included.  It was a ton of work, but well worth the effort.  I was able to improve my shaping and glassing skills all at the same time.  I always kept it at a low production level and never really got into making hundreds of boards to keep up with mass demand.  I was more about making a special board for the customer that wanted the customized service of going to a one man show.

A board with a fabric inlay that's almost too nice to ride.....almost

Describe the typical surfer who is going to contact a shaper rather than buying a board off the rack.

The surfer that will contact a shaper for a board is someone that is getting a little more in tune with their surfing equipment.  At this point they probably have ridden enough different board shapes to be able to tell the difference in how they ride.  They most likely have things that they like about some boards, and things that they don’t like about other boards. As soon as they are comfortable in being able to describe what they are looking for to a shaper, they are ready to get a custom board.

Of course there is the monetary aspect as well.  Getting a custom board built is definitely a few notches above buying a beat up old used board to learn on.  It takes a bit more dedication to surfing to buy a brand new custom board, and to know how to take proper care of the new board.

Do you feel that there is a segment of surfers that are selling themselves short by not considering contacting a shaper?

This question is a little tricky.  I would have to say no, and yes.  I feel surfing is truly about the pleasure that you experience.  It’s about connecting with the ocean and nature. So for those people that are out there surfing on whatever board that they can get their hands on, and love it, then they don’t need a custom shape.  I imagine there is a huge population of surfers out there that have never had a custom board built yet surfing is their favorite thing to do.  They found their pleasure in riding waves on whatever board they ride.  I don’t feel that these people are selling themselves short.

On the flip side, I know that there is another population of surfers out there that are looking to take their surfing to the next level yet are hesitant on contacting a shaper. Maybe they feel that they don’t surf good enough to get a custom board built, or maybe they feel that they don’t have the cash.  For the surfers out there that are thinking about the design of their board, or are into riding all different types of shapes, it would be very beneficial for them to someday get a custom board built.  The experience between a good shaper and the rider can be a very educational and exciting experience.  The surfer can describe the ride they are looking for, and watch words translate to design as the shaper transforms their concept to a final form.  These people would be selling themselves short by not contacting a shaper.

Clean classic lines

What shapes and styles are being requested these days?

Every shaper’s customers vary according to the boards that shaper is good at shaping. Of course there are guys out there like Takayama, Campbell Bros., Pavel, Terry Martin etc. that can shape anything and everything, because they are the masters.

But more often than not, shapers are really good at a few shapes that most of their customers like to order from them.  I would definitely fall into the traditional/retro/old school/experimental board shapes category.  I don’t really shape any potato chip thrusters, mainly because I was never into riding those boards.  I always approached surfing as an art form, and not a sport.  This has translated into the boards that I ride and shape.

Most of my customers are looking for traditional shapes such as a heavy longboard, single fin midlength, single fin short board, twin fin fish or quad fish.  I pride myself on giving my customers a very personal experience and personal surfboard.  So my customers are also coming to me for the inlaid fabric, photo of their dog or favorite band on the deck of their board.  Whereas I do not have one shape that is most popular among my customers, I do have that very personalized, custom experience that I give all of them.

What is the price range for a custom shaped board?

The price range for a custom board has definitely changed, as all things do over time.  The cost of resins has risen significantly over the last several years causing board prices to soar ever higher.  Obviously the board price will vary according to the shape and length of the board.  For a shorter board they would start out at about $400, and go all the way up to $1500 for a super nice custom longboard done by one of the masters.  These prices would include the glass jobs.

What should the newer surfer that is moving up from a beginner board be looking for?

A good board for a surfer looking to transition from a beginner longboard to a shorter board is the midlength.  These boards are usually about 7 to 9 feet long, and are ideal for that transition period.  They still have a little length so that they are fairly easy to paddle, and catch waves.  However, they are not as big as a longboard, and thus are easier to turn, carry and generally maneuver through the surf.  It can be a dangerous situation when a beginner surfer is riding a board that is too big for them to handle.  The midlength will be easier to turtle roll, or duck dive out past the surf, as well as quicker to spin around to catch the approaching wave.

Midlengths are also awesome boards for the advanced surfer wanting a different glide or feeling on the wave.  You can get in early on a wave like a longboard, but stand on the tail and surf it more like a shorter board.  They are good all around boards that can be ridden in 2 foot surf to 10 foot surf, and thus a good board to have if your quiver is small. A must have for all surfers looking to ride alternative equipment.

What kind of questions would you ask someone who comes to you looking for a new board?

Some important questions that a shaper would ask a customer would generally be inquiries to get a feel for the surfer’s ability, experience and favorite surf spots.

The shaper would want to know how long they have been surfing, what boards they currently ride, and what they like or dislike about those boards.  They would want to know where they like to surf as this may give clues as to the surfer’s ability.  A surfer battling it out at Lower Trestles everyday may have a different ability/experience level than the surfer cruising small Doheny.  Other important questions would be the surfer’s height and weight so as to be able to make the board correctly for that rider. They may want to know where the surfer wants to ride this exact board being made.  Is it a specialty board made just for their go outs at Pipeline, or maybe Malibu?  Or is it meant to be an all around board ready to ride all sorts of beaches and breaks.  These questions should be sufficient enough for a shaper to determine what type of board to make their customer.

Green resin tint on a gorgeous fish

What changes have you seen in surfboard trends recently?

The most significant changes that I have seen in surfboards have been in design aspects.  Shapers all over the world really dove into experimental design on shapes and materials used for surfboards.  Surfboards have gone from thrusters to twin keel fins, to quads, to 5 finned bonzers, all the way to no fins at all.  The Alaia boards really changed the way that people looked at riding waves by taking an ancient design and modernizing it a bit.  The Alaia being a very thin piece of wood with no fins was revolutionary in forcing the surfer to focus on trim and wave positioning instead of looking for the next section to boost an air.

The Bob Simmons designs have also become popular these days by taking another very old design concept, and modernizing it a bit.  The Simmons design gave us very small, short twin fins, and the detailed concept of hydrodynamic theories and displacement hulls.  Hull surfboards have thus seen a rise in popularity along with the Simmons approach to board design.

Besides the design changes that have become very apparent in recent times, there also lies the change in materials that has swept the industry.  More and more “greener” concepts have been brought to the surfboard industry in an attempt to make the building of surfboards a little safer for the environment.  People are using recycled foam blanks, balsa wood and bamboo.  With the surfboard resin, epoxy has become a more favored “greener” option versus the polyester resin.

So what are your feelings on Epoxy vs. Poly Urethane?

The epoxy vs. PU question is a difficult debate for me.  I am completely for anything that helps to make this planet cleaner and safer.  I also own a screen printing business and we pride ourselves in using environmentally friendly inks and cleaners.  My customers come to me specifically because we are an environmentally friendly printer.

However, the feeling of a PU board versus an epoxy board under your feet is completely different.  They float differently and ride differently.  My opinion probably has mostly to do with my view on surfing and being more of a traditionalist.   For me, I prefer the PU boards because of they feel and the way they ride.  There is also nothing else like a beautifully glassed board with resin tints or pigments, and nice pinlines.  It’s like a classic car.  The epoxy board may have pros like the newer Toyota Prius, but that PU surfboard is like that beautiful ’64 Ford Galaxie cruising down the road.  It just demands your attention and admiration.

A glassed on fin adds character

Anything else you would like to add?

I guess to sum it up, like I said before, surfing is all about the joy and pleasure that you get out of it.  It is a special experience that surfers get to share, an interaction with Mother Nature in an intimate relationship.  Not everyone needs a specific wave riding vehicle to get that experience.  They may enjoy that feeling on a wave no matter what is under their feet, or knees, or belly.  Others may take a special interest in what actually goes into designing and building a surfboard.  For those people, a relationship with a shaper may add to their level of interest in board design.  Who knows, that relationship may even develop into transforming that surfer into a shaper himself.  In fact all shapers, no matter how big and famous or small, were once at that point in their lives.  That point where they were interested in surfboard design and decided to give it a go.  With a little persistence and dedication, you too may someday be a skilled surfboard shaper.

I truly believe that good board builders are a part of a tribe of craftsmen.  They have a set of skills that are passed down from generation to generation, a good eye, and the ability to work well with your hands.  They have that ability to be artists, and very technical at the same time.  That is the board builder that I strive to be.

Sean Tully currently shapes boards in Southern California and also runs a screen printing business using environmentally friendly inks and cleaners.  If you would like more information, contact Sean at 760-597-8738 or seantully79@yahoo.com.

Filed Under: Profiles And Interviews

Tags: custom surfboards, featured, Sean Tully, shapers

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My First Surfboard

My first surfboard was a Bing Foil, purchased for $75 in the summer of 1970

Every surfer remembers their first surfboard.

There is something mystical about it. For some odd reason, you remember the who, what, where, why and when of it all. Ask any surfer what his/her first board was, and they’ll rattle off the color, the dimensions, and whatever became of it.

And you want to know why?

It is because you get so much more from the purchase of a surfboard than fiberglass and foam; you get an attitude that comes with it, and it is something no one can ever take away from you.

No matter your gait, when you put a surfboard under your arm, it becomes a strut. You enter a whole new realm with a surge of confidence that you never had before.

During the summer of  2009, I was coaxed into the world of Facebook by a dear friend. While chatting with my old surf buddy Scott Collings, we recalled our first boards, entering into this really cool state of stoke that had us both typing like banshees!

I told him about my first board, a 6’10” Bing “Foil” that I purchased in the summer of 1970 for a mere $75 from my friend Stanley Trapp.

For me it was a gold mine, for it was just like the board that Rolf Aurness had won the World Title with the previous month. And at the same moment I was taking ownership of my new Foil, my brother Jimmy was surfing up and down the California coast with none other than…Rolf Aurness.

I rode that Foil the entire summer before it was stolen from my carport just like mom had warned me it would if I didn’t put it away.

Scott told me about his first time surfing, about he and his brother Jeff riding an old log with the glass half torn off (talk about itchy). Then he bragged about his first board, a 9’4? TP by Allen (Total Performance), a Christmas gift from his dad when he was ten years old.

We progressed into our second boards and our thirds. There was lots of namedropping and placedropping, and we went on for hours.

“Boy, does this bring back good times,” said Scott.

And I agreed.

So I got an idea to start a group on facebook called, you guessed it, “My First Surfboard.”

Upon creating the group, I realized I had no pictures of my first surfboard, so I googled for an image of a Bing Foil, found one, and contacted surf legend Bing Copeland seeking permission to use the photo.

Bing Copeland's first surfboard, a 10' Simmons, 1950

Imagine my surprise when Bing responded! Copeland not only granted his permission, but he joined the group and sent along a photo of his first board, as well. He wrote:

“My first (real) surfboard was a 10’ 1950 Simmons that Bob Simmons made for me. It weighed 45 lbs. and cost $45.00. I remember Greg Noll and I would meet at the clubhouse at the Manhattan Pier just before dawn and put on our trunks (still wet from the night before) and wait at the waters edge until it got light enough to see the waves. Then we would paddle out and catch five or six waves until we had to hightail it up the hill to the school bus stop. We would wait for the bus with salt on our skin and sand in our hair. Those were really carefree days.”

Carefree indeed!

Just a few days later, I was endeared to read a post from a long lost friend, Rick Wilkinson. Rick grew up surfing Jacksonville Beach, and…aw heck, let him tell the story:

“My first stick was a “Malibu” pop out, and I bought it at Procter Ace Hardware in Jacksonville Beach, 1965. It seemed, at that time there were waves every day, and there were. Buff Hart, Jimmy Hart, Roach, Flash, Hathaway, Dennis Glosklose, Dave Doerr, Red Danner, Larry Miniard, Bruce Clelland, the Roland’s, the Rosborough’s, David Lambert, Bill Hixon, Tim New, Chuck Bull, Mark Nauman, Charlie Bullard, Ronnie McClane, Gordo Guthrie, Gary Walker & Buddy Haack. A crowded day was 5 people. 7th Avenue North, Atlantic Beach Pier, Vilano & Dickinson’s Surfs Shop. Then, it was the ultimate. Weber Performers, Access 5 at dawn, 33rd Avenue South, the Ellis brothers, the DeLoach brothers, Larry Caldwell & Simpson. We were gods…pioneers…tripping the surf fantastic…we were the beach.”

If you’re not a surfer, Rick’s post just might appear to ramble. However, if you grew up surfing in North Florida in the sixties, it undoubtedly, not only flows, it strikes a familiar chord that anyone who has ever ridden a wave can more than relate to.

In the upcoming months, more and more people joined, including a few more heavy hitters, and some sent along pictures. Two photos in particular caught my eye, as they seemed to epitomize the joy and fascination of board ownership.

Sarah Arnold Jacobs' first surfboard, a yellow paneled JACOBS, Palos Verses, CA, 1964

First was one of a teenage girl, circa 1964, clad in her madras bikini and clutching an 8’2” Jacobs with a smile equally as big. Her name is Sarah Arnold Jacobs, and she wrote:

“My first board was a yellow paneled JACOBS longboard that I rode in ‘64. Purchased from JACOBS Surfboards in Hermosa Beach, I surfed RAT as I lived in Palos Verdes. I loved that board! An 8' 2?, it was perfect!”

The picture was so priceless; we befriended one another and were soon chatting surf into the wee hours of the morning. We’ve become more than just “facebook friends.” Sarah is one of my biggest supporters, having linked me up with the likes of Corky Carroll for a recent story and helping me with my writing in other areas, as well. In fact, “typing like a banshee!” is her line. I stole it from her.

We still chat whenever one of us sees the other online, and the stories never seem to end.

I hope they never do.

Lynn Allen Paulsen's first surfboard, a Velzy, Surfside, TX, 1963

Just a few months later, a post appeared by My First Surfboard’s newest member, Lynn Allen Paulsen of Texas. All she wrote was:

“A Velzy and can’t remember the length. That was in the 60's.”

While Lynn’s post was rather succinct, to say the least, it was the photo accompanying her post that grabbed my attention: An 11-year-old girl posing on the beach at Surfside, Texas, circa 1963, with a classic Velzy. She may not have remembered the length of her board, but there was no question as to the length of her smile: At least a mile wild.

Over the past 15 months, hundreds of fascinating posts have appeared on MFS, from all over the world and all walks of life. But just the other day, its newest member posted what has to be my favorite.

A Coolite "Midget Farrelly Pro Champ" model

Stuart D’Arcy of Queensland, Australia wrote:

“My first surfboard was a Colonel Sanders Coolite which came free with a 13 piece bucket of Kentucky Fried Chicken for my 8th Birthday (1971). I learned to surf on that little thing and after 2 years progressed to an 8’6 longboard which I soon swapped for 6’7” G&S Stinger swallow tail…the rest is history…been surfing… and shaping boards ever since..lovin’ it!!!”

Now, why would that be of any significance? What is so special about a massed produced, “foamie” board that came free with a bucket of chicken?

Well, you’ve got to admit: It is a cool story. Coolites were a molded course bubble (Polystyrene) foam board made for beginners. Much like the USA’s Styrofoam boards, found at any coastal drugstore or five & dime, they were basically a cut-down version of the “real” surfboards being ridden by the likes of Midget Farrelly, who endorsed the 4’10? boards for Hanimex Pty Ltd.

Coolites, advertised as “the safe way” to enter the sport, soon flooded Australia beaches and were the first boards for not only D’Arcy, but the like of future World Champions Tom Carrol,  Damien Hardman and Pam Burridge.

D’Arcy’s particular story is made even cooler by the fact that, almost 40 years later, Stuart is the owner of D’Arcy Surfboards, Australia’s leading environmentally friendly surfboard manufacturer. Stuart, himself, is a world-renowned shaper, custom building for surfers of all levels, including 7-time ASP Women’s World Champion Layne Beachley and Asher Pacey. The fact that Stuart’s foray into the wonderful world of surfing was a KFC Coolite, well, that just seems to capture the heart and soul of what MFS has come to be.

Stuart D'Arcy shaping what just may become someone's "First Surfboard"

You see, whether you’re a heavy hitter like Bing Copeland or Stuart D’Arcy, or just a plain, ordinary surfer like Scott, Rick, Sarah, Lynn or myself, it doesn’t really matter.

Surfboard ownership is a coveted ticket to a whole new dimension, a truly special relationship with Mother Nature that no amount of money can buy. There are millions of surfers around this great, big world, and only a precious few truly master the sport. But all surfers have one thing in common: They have the attitude.

Check that…make it two things: They all remember their first surfboard, too.

Filed Under: Around The Surfing World

Tags: Bing Copeland, Coolite, D'Arcy Surfboards, featured, Jacobs Surfboards, Stuart D'Arcy, surf shops, Velzy Surfboards

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Wave Hunting in Big Sur

The hawk flew over the hood of my car.  I slowed down a bit, and watched as it perched on a fencepost, a squirming rattlesnake in its talons.  The snake’s tail flailed around desperately—with obvious terror—as the hawk bent down, and in one swift motion tore off its head. The hawk then began to voraciously rip away chunks of flesh, as the snake’s tail continued to writhe about sporadically. It eventually stopped moving.

That was the first thing I saw when I arrived at Big Sur.

Named long ago by the insightful Spanish explorer Gaspar de Portola for its vast uncivilized expanses south of the relative security of Monterrey, el pais grande del sur (or Big Sur) stretches nearly 70 miles from San Simeon to Carmel.

Even with the introduction of paved roads in the 1920’s, and electricity in the 1950’s, Big Sur is still a wild place, complete with colossal redwoods, roving mountain lions, and daunting cliffs straight from “The Land Of The Lost.” That rugged beauty has attracted pilgrims of all kind over the years: from common tourists and naturalists, to artists like Jack Kerouac, and even movie stars like Rita Hayworth; all drawn to this shrine of unadulterated natural magnificence like moths to a flame.

Sand Dollar State Beach

Yet, there has always been one particular facet of Big Sur’s isolated nature that especially fascinated me: the possibility for untapped surf.

With mile after mile of exposed coast—devoid of the crowds of Los Angeles and well outside the nagging shadow of Point Conception—an adventurous surfer should be able to find ample and epic waves, right?

Well, according to Surfer Magazine’s Guide to Central and Northern California, of the 70 miles that comprise the Big Sur region, there are only a half-dozen known surf spots. For those who are geographically challenged, that is comparable to driving from L.A. to Santa Barbara and witnessing only a handful of gas stations. To me, those numbers seemed ridiculous. There just has to be more surf spots waiting to be discovered.
I couldn’t let go of the thought, that somewhere, hidden in some primordial cove, guarded by a posse of scarred white sharks and toothless locals, were these mammoth waves breaking cleanly over lush kelp forests, just waiting to be ridden.  Save from the possibility of ending up like Quint from Jaws, nothing would deter me from finding my surfing Holy Grail.

I had only a short weekend in November to go on my trip. I was taking work off on a Friday, driving up from Los Angeles all day, and spending the night in San Simeon. I would surf most of Saturday, camp for the night, and then come home the next day. With such a short time frame, I wouldn’t be able to do much exploring, but I should be able to a get slight taste of Big Sur surfing.

Surfari Day 1: The Road Warrior

The day of my departure arrived, and after saying my goodbyes (and receiving a request to say “hola” to Mr. Whitey), I left home and headed north.

230 miles, five hours, and two Cliff Bars later, I was in San Simeon.  What had once been stunted chaparral when I left L.A. had given way to rolling green hills and thick forests. In the distance, low clouds clung tentatively to the towering Santa Lucia Mountains, and the coalesced smell of pine trees and salt filled the air.  I checked into my motel in the late afternoon. With a few hours of daylight left, I decided to head up to Big Sur for some surf reconnaissance.

I followed the snaking highway north, past endless rows of barbed wire and herds of meandering cattle.  I paused momentarily at an elephant seal rookery to take in the sights (and the surprisingly nauseating smells), and I watched as overhead sets pounded coldly offshore, possibly hinting at what was waiting for me.  I continued driving, past the abandoned Piedras Blancas Motel, where a dozen or so sheriffs—including one who bore an uncanny resemblance to Chief Wiggums—stood glaring at several trespassers.

Piedras Blancas Lighthouse

As soon as I left San Luis Obispo County the avian sideshow and a rather sudden downpour welcomed me to Big Sur.

The road rose sharply, and clutched tightly to lofty cliff faces.  Even from up high I could see powerful sets rolling in, crashing violently against lonely sea stacks, conjuring up thoughts of an albatross necklace, and then the unavoidable contemplation of whether or not piracy would be a good career move.

After passing the town of Gorda (you can wave to the entire population as you drive by), I made it to my first surf spot: Willow Creek State Beach. Standing in the parking lot, soaking with rain, my stomach immediately sank. The waves were double overhead, spiteful and unforgiving, closing out swiftly on a shallow rock bed. Not a soul was in the line up. At this point, wet and alone, I was contemplating writing “shark bait” across my forehead.

Two others joined me after a while. One grabbed his short board and rushed out into the water. He caught one wave, and his leash snapped. He eventually made it back to shore, looking as battered and broken as a punch drunk boxer.

The other individual, his face and hair crusted with sand and dried salt, told me he was short on cash and gas.  He then offered to sell me some of the homegrown weed he had stacked in his trunk, of which he had obviously been partaking. It wasn’t the morale boost as I was looking for.

I drove back to my motel, and prepared for the next day.

Surfari Day 2: Big Wednesday (actually Big Saturday)

The next day the dreary cold had retreated, the sky was clear, and the sun was shining.  Ol’ Neptune had obviously taken pity on me.

I checked out of my motel and hit the road.  I avoided Willow Creek, and headed even further north.  Eventually, I arrived at Sand Dollar Beach.  I hiked a ¼ mile down from the parking lot and saw an empty line up, but very promising head high sets.  After donning my neoprene armor (full 4/3 with hood and booties) and waxing up my trusty 6.2 thruster, I paddled out into the frigid water.

Somewhere North Of San Simeon

The water was clear, and bull kelp lay strewn lazily across the bottom.  At first, a lone elephant seal (whom–in a bout of twisted humor–I named Chum) and I were on the only ones in the water.  But a sizeable crew of local surfers later joined us, which was quite surprising. Being a large beach break, the waves and line up at Sand Dollar were constantly shifting, keeping me on my toes—or stomach—depending on your point of view.

As the day progressed, the sets gradually became larger and began to close out, and the line up thinned a bit. I was lucky though, and was able to finish the day on a stoke-inducing right, pulling a quick cut back and off-the-lip that left me smiling.

With the sky getting dark, I decided to make camp at Plaskett Creek.  As soon as I pitched my tent, there was a sudden shower.  I spent the whole night listening to the thudding of the falling rain, feeling content with my waves and hearty dinner of chicken noodle soup.

Wet Camp

Surfari Day 3: Homeward Bound

The next morning, I awoke to find the roof of my tent sagging with rain. With the reality of a workweek setting in, I drained the water off my tent and packed it up.  I said adios to Big Sur, and started driving home.

On a whim, I stopped by the pungent elephant seal rookery again, and remarkably, in a nearby cove, there were several surfers in the water. There they were, decked out in rubber head to toe, ridding freezing waist-high waves, completely content with sharing the line up with several dozen blubbery shark snacks.  When I had driven by this area yesterday the waves had looked too chaotic to ride, so I had ignored them.

“And we’ll all sleep together in a real pile!”

Thus, like cold ocean spray to the head, the realization rushed over me.  If there were waves here, what other spots did I (or others) simply write off as being poor?  What I had surfed yesterday had represented a tiny fraction of the possible surf resources in Big Sur.  I had spent two days here, when in all reality, I could have spent a whole lifetime searching every cove in the region for surf.  Those waves are there; the challenge is just getting to them.  The weather is harsh, the swell can switch from ship-sinking to perfection overnight, and you risk the chance of being eaten alive, but the sizable crew of local surfers proves that good surf can be had.  I found surf at Big Sur, and I was only there for a weekend.  The only thing preventing the discovery of new spots are natural obstacles, and with determination (and a bit of bravery), they can be overcome and more waves can be had. Just be smart and don’t do it alone, or you too might be privy to the same fate of my surf buddy Chum.

Surfer At Willow Creek

Filed Under: Surf Travel Reports

Tags: Big Sur, featured, Northern California

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